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服装制衣厂缝纫线迹基本知识简介stitch线迹,针脚,粤针步,线步线迹的分类形式很多,1979年,国际标准化组织对线迹的种类,编号进行了规定,将标准线迹分为6大类:100类-链式线迹200类-仿手工线迹300类-琐式线迹400类-多线链式线迹500类-包缝线迹600类-覆盖线迹100类中最常用的是101和103两种101和103都是是单线链式线迹,103常用于暗线挑缝300类中最常用的是301,304,308和320其中301称单针平缝线迹,又是最最常用的线迹,304两点人字线迹,308三点人字线迹,比301更有弹性400类中最常用的是401,402,407401又叫直线型双线链式线迹,又一条针线一条钩线组成在底层缝料的底面利用相互交错和相互交圈形成锁链状线迹402又称双针网底线迹,又两条针线和一条钩线组成,通常用于针织裤子的侧缝和手套背面的装饰线条407表面如三条平行的301线迹,底层则为网状结构,主要用于车缝橡筋到内裤内衣上500类中最常用的有504,505,512,514504和505都是三线包缝线迹504广泛用于制衣业的锁边工序,505主要针对中厚料512和514是四线包缝又称安全线迹都由两条针线两条钩线组成,只是钩线与针线的交圈方式上两阵稍有不同600类中最常用的是602,605,607三种602又称二针网面线迹,主要用于针织捏仪,运动服装等605又称三针网面线迹主要用语衣服上缝橡津,切滚条和拼接缝的缝合等工序607是四针网面线迹,有四条针线知识比605加了一条阵线其他类似综上所述,600类主要用于针织服装的滚边,滚领,折边,拼接缝和装饰花边等工序,其实也就是绷缝啦;)bartack,(bartack,bar-tack)套结,倒回针,加固缝,粤打枣flat-lockstitch,(flatlockstitch),coveringstitch覆盖线迹,绷缝线迹interlockstitch联锁线迹,多线链式线迹singlethreadchainstitch单线链式线迹,单线链状线,粤单线锁链底针步,(101线迹),(用于假缝,如袋口)103线迹-blindstitch暗缝,暗缲针缝,粤挑脚,301线迹-lockstitch,plainstitch锁式线迹,平缝线迹,普通线迹,粤平车针步,(最常见的线迹)304线迹-zigzaglockstitch曲折锁式线迹,锯齿形锁式线迹,Z形锁式线迹,之字形平车针步,粤人字形平车针步,(底面线都是锁式线迹)401线迹-singleneedlechainstitch单针链式线迹,单针链状针步,粤单针锁链底针步404线迹-zigzagchainstitch曲折链式线迹,锯齿形链式线迹,Z形链式线迹,粤人字锁链底针步,(面线是锁式线迹,底线是链式线迹)406线迹-2needlesbottomcoverstitch双针底部覆盖线迹,粤双针网底针步,(用于腰带袢,针织服装的袖口、下摆等)407线迹-3needlesbottomcoverstitch三针底部绷缝线迹,粤三针网底针步408线迹-2needleschainstitchwithcoverthread双针链式表面覆盖线迹,粤双针网面锁链底针步503线迹-2threadsoveredgestitch双线拷边,双线包边,粤双线钑骨504线迹-overlockstitch,coveredgestitch,3threadsoveredgestitch包缝线迹,拷边线迹,锁边线迹,三线拷边,三线包边,粤三线钑骨,(最常见的拷边线迹)512线迹-mocksafetystitch假线迹,模拟线迹,(用于弹性面料接缝)514线迹-2needles4threadsoveredgestitch双针四线拷边,双针四线包边,粤双针四线钑骨,(用于弹性面料接缝)515线迹(401+503)-4threadssafetystitch四线安全线迹,粤四线安全针步516线迹(401+504)-safetystitch,5threadssafetystitch五线拷边,五线锁边,安全线迹,五线包边安全线迹,粤五线钑骨602线迹-2needles4threadscoverstitch双针四线绷缝线迹605线迹-3needles5threadscoverstitch三针五线绷缝线迹606线迹-4needles9threadscoverstitch,(flatlockstitch)四针九线平式绷缝线迹607线迹-4needles6threadscoverstitch,(flatseamer/flatlockstitch)四针六线平式绷缝线迹,pearlstitch珠式线迹,(Usedinknitting,forfancybordersandedges,onewhichworkedbackonitselfallowingarippledeffecttobemade.Becauseofthis,hereceivedthenicknameofperleywilson.)服饰线迹的工艺名词知识平缝线迹PLAINSTITCH,FLATSTITCH疏缝线迹BASTINGSTITCH,TACKINGSTITC绷缝线迹COVERINGSTITCH,FLAT-LOCKSTITCH绗缝线迹QUILTEDSTITCH嵌缝线迹CORDSTITCH面缝线迹TOPSTITCH,OVERSTITCH暗缝线迹INVISIBLESTITCH,BLINDSTITCH缲缝线迹SLIPSTITCH折缝线迹FELLSTITCH倒缝线迹REVERSIBLESTITCH,BACKWARDSTITCH包缝线迹OVERLOCKSTITCH,OVERCASTINGSTITCH,OVEREDGE锁式线迹LOCKSTITCH,LOCKSTITCH人字线迹HERRINGBONESTITCH羽状线迹FEATHERSTITCH珠式线迹PEARLSTITCHZ形线迹CATCHSTITCH,ZIGZAGSTITCH角形线迹ANGLESTITCH弓形线迹ARCHEDSTITCH锯齿形状线迹PICOTSTITCH,ZIGZAGSTITCH贝壳形状线迹SHELLSTITCH网眼形状线迹BASKETSTITCH蜂窝形状线迹HONEYCOMBSTITCH直形线迹STRAIGHTSTITCH双十字形状线迹DOUBLESTITCH交叉线迹,十字线迹CROSSSTITCH圆形线迹ROUNDSTITCH廓形线迹OUTLINESTITCH曲折形线迹ZIGZAGSITITCH变形线迹CHANGESTITCH钩编线迹CROCHETSTITCH织补线迹DARNINGSTITCH刺绣线迹EMBROIDERYSTITCH,CREWELSTITCH装饰线迹ORNAMENTALSTITCH,DECORATIVESTITCH花式线迹FANCYSTITCH点划线迹DOTDASHSTITCH对称线迹COUNTERSTITCH比翼线迹FLYSTITCH特殊线迹SPECIALSTITCH复合线迹COMBINATIONSTITCH,SPLITSTITCH复式线迹DOUBLEACTIONSTITCH双针线迹TWICESTITCH双重线迹TWICESTITCH三重线迹TRIPLESTITCH缝式线迹SEAMSTITCH加固线迹FASTENINGSTITCH,TACKINGSTITCH打结线迹KNOTTINGSTITCH扎缚线迹PADDINGSTITCH袖褶线迹SHIRRINGSTITCH伸缩线迹STRETCHSTITCH,ELASICSTITCH滚边线迹BINDINGSTITCH卷边线迹HEMMINGSTITCH暗卷缝线迹BLINDINGHEMMINGSTITCH拼合线迹ABUTTINGSTITCH间断线迹BROKENSTITCH跳针线迹SKIPPINGSTITCH安全线迹SAFETYSTITCH手针缝法缭针法SLIPSTITCH拱针法PRICKSTITCH明缲针法FELLSTITCHHaLI-soNIddlys坦44卷HaLI-sOVZOIZ坦転定HaLI-s坦wHaLI-sHNOmoNIHHHH坦4411lHaLI-syovmrHaLI-syov-HVm坦44輕HaLI-syoCH坦44SHaLI-soNImB坦44SoNUSVmVNOoVIa坦44皋HaLI-savd坦44式HaLI-sONINH-SVH坦44HaLI-sHaLVo坦44$HaLI-sONIWWHHONIN坦44eHaLI-sOVZOIZHaLI-s-ooId嘏照笑追嗥HaLI-sCIHHOHV嘏照追npHaLI-sTIONV嘏照追HaLI-sOVZOIZ.HaLI-sHaLVo嘏追zHaLI-s嘏照帘HaLI-s嘏照笑爲HaLI-sHNOmoNIHHHH嘏蚌VHaLI-sXOCHNIVHO嘏照帘sHaLI-sNIVHO嘏照帘wHaLusyocrrHaLI-syoCH嘏照帘sHOCIHHHAOHaLI-sONUSVOHHAOHaLI-syoCHHHAOsssHaLI-sCIHVMyovmHaLI-sTImISHHAHH嘏鹦輕HaLI-sTIHHsssteHaLI-sdls嘏照鹦瞰HaLI-saNImrHaLI-sTImISIANIssseHaLI-sHHAO.HaLI-sdo-SSSEHaLI-saxoosHaLI-sCIHrnBssssHaLI-syoCH-V七HaLI-sONIHHAOOssswHaLI-soNIyoVJ/HaLI-soNI-svm嘏照鹦握HaLI-sJAnHrHaLI-sNIVdsss贝壳形状线迹SHELLSTITCH网眼形状线迹BASKETSTITCH蜂窝形状线迹HONEYCOMBSTITCH直形线迹STRAIGHTSTITCH双十字形状线迹DOUBLESTITCH交叉线迹,十字线迹CROSSSTITCH圆形线迹ROUNDSTITCH廓形线迹OUTLINESTITCH曲折形线迹ZIGZAGSITITCH变形线迹CHANGESTITCH钩编线迹CROCHETSTITCH织补线迹DARNINGSTITCH刺绣线迹EMBROIDERYSTITCH,CREWELSTITCH装饰线迹ORNAMENTALSTITCH,DECORATIVESTITCH花式线迹FANCYSTITCH点划线迹DOTDASHSTITCH对称线迹COUNTERSTITCH比翼线迹FLYSTITCH特殊线迹SPECIALSTITCH复合线迹COMBINATIONSTITCH,SPLITSTITCH复式线迹DOUBLEACTIONSTITCH双针线迹TWICESTITCH双重线迹TWICESTITCH三重线迹TRIPLESTITCH缝式线迹SEAMSTITCH加固线迹FASTENINGSTITCH,TACKINGSTITCH打结线迹KNOTTINGSTITCH扎缚线迹PADDINGSTITCH袖褶线迹SHIRRINGSTITCH伸缩线迹STRETCHSTITCH,ELASICSTITCH滚边线迹BINDINGSTITCH卷边线迹HEMMINGSTITCH暗卷缝线迹BLINDINGHEMMINGSTITCH拼合线迹ABUTTINGSTITCH间断线迹BROKENSTITCH跳针线迹SKIPPINGSTITCH安全线迹SAFETYSTITCH手针缝法缭针法SLIPSTITCH拱针法PRICKSTITCH明缲针法FELLSTITCH暗缲针法BLINGHEMMINGSTITCH环针法CATCHSTITCH叠针法FASTENINGSTITCH扎针法PADSTITCH扳针法DIAGONALBASTING绗针法QUILTINGSTITCH锁针法LOCKSTITCH倒针法BARTACKSTITCH,BACKSTITCH三角针法HERRINGBONESTITCH杨树花针法一一FEATHERSTITCH花针法ZIGZAGSTITCH跳针法SKIPPINGSTITCH缝型,缝式SEAMTYPE,SEAMPATTERN结构缝COMPOSITESEAM普通缝NORMALSEAM装饰缝ORNAMENTALSEAMDECORATIVESEAM连续缝CONTINUOUSSEAM间断缝BROKENSEAM长缝LONGSEAM短缝SHORTSEAM内缝INSEAM外缝OUTSEAM原缝THICKSEAM中缝CENTRESEAM侧缝SIDESEAM斜线缝BIASSEAM缭缝SLANTINGSEAM弧线缝CURVEDSEAM转角缝CORNERSEAM平缝FLATSEAM平接缝SLATFELLSEAM,BUTTEDSEAM搭接缝LAPPINGSEAM双搭接缝DOUBLELAPPEDSEAM接合缝JOININGSEAM拼合缝ABUTTEDSEAM双线缝TWINSEAM镶色缝CONTRASTCOLORSEAM嵌花缝APPLIANCESEAM绷缝,覆盖缝一一FLATLOCKSEAM,COVEREDSEAM来去缝FRENCHSEAM,BAGSEAM莱克拉缝LYCRASEAM伸缩缝STRETCHSEAM,ELASTICSEAM漏落缝SELFBOUNDSEAM坐倒缝LAPPINGSEAM开缝OPENINGSEAM分缉缝DOUBLETOPSTITCHEDSEAM压缉缝TOPSTITCHEDLAPSEAM坐缉缝TUCKEDSEAM成形缝FINISHINGSEAM,FASHIONSEAM明缝,面缝OUTSEAM,TOPSTICHSEAM暗缝BLINDSEAM,INVISIBLESEAM暗边缝HINDEDGESEAM包缝OVERSEAMCLOSEDSEAM,OVEREDGESEAMOVERCASTSEAM,OVERLOCKSEAM明包缝FLATFELLSEAM暗包缝WELTSEAM锁式线缝LOCKSTITCHSEAM连锁缝INTERLOCKSEAM链式线缝CHAINSTITCHSEAM环缝CATCHSTITCHSEAM嵌缝CORDINGSEAM绗缝QUILTINGSEAM格子缝LATTICESEAM交叉缝CROSSSEAM泡状缝BEADEDSEAM,锯齿缝GERMANSEAM,ZIGZAGSEAM曲折缝ZIGZAGSEAM蝶形缝BUTTERFLYSEAM辫形缝PLAITEDSEAM凸形缝RAISEDSEAM带形缝STRAPSEAM悬缝HANGINGSEAM保险缝FLATFELLSEAM加固缝TACKINGSEAM,FASTENINGSEAM终止缝FINALSEAM领缝COLLARSEAMNECKSEAM肩缝SHOULDERSEAM背缝BACKSEAM背嵌缝CENTREBACKSEAM袖下缝UNDERARMSEAM袖笼缝ARMHOLESEAM门襟缝FRONTFLYSEAM,PLACKETSEAM门襟止口缝FORNTEDGESEAM摆缝SIDESEAM衩缝VENTSEAM腰缝WAISTLINESEAM腰带缝WAISTBANDSEAM裆缝CROTCHSEAM前裆缝FRONTRISESEAM后裆缝BACKRISESEAM,SEATSEAM下裆缝INSIDESEAM,INSEAM折叠缝FOLDINGSEAM褶裥缝BUCKEDSEAM,PLKEATSEAM对折缝FELLEDSEAM卷边缝HEMMINGSEAM贴边缝WELTSEAM滚边缝BOUNDSEAM织补缝DARNINGSEAM贴带缝TAPEDSEAM缝纫线知识缝纫线是主要的线类材料,用于缝合各种服装材料,兼有实用与装饰双重功能。缝纫线质量的好坏,不仅影响缝纫效率,且影响所缝服装和制品的外观质量及加工成本。因此有必要了解缝纫线的有关常识。1缝纫线的分类与特点缝纫线最常用的分类方法是原料分类法,包括天然纤维缝纫线、合成纤维缝纫线及混合缝纫线三大类。天然纤维缝纫线a.棉缝纫线:以棉纤维为原料经炼漂、上浆、打蜡等工序制成的缝纫线。强度较高,耐热性好,适于高速缝纫与耐久压烫,缺点是弹性与耐磨性较差。它又可分为无光线(或软线)、丝光线和蜡光线。棉缝线主要用于棉织物、皮革及高温熨烫衣物的缝纫。b.蚕丝线:用天然蚕丝制成的长丝线或绢丝线,有极好的光泽,其强度、弹性和耐磨性能均优于棉线,适于缝制各类丝绸服装、高档呢绒服装、毛皮与皮革服装等。我国古代常用蚕丝绣花线绣制精美的装饰绣品。合成纤维缝纫线a.涤纶缝纫线:是目前主要的缝纫用线,以涤纶长丝或短纤维为原料制成。具有强度高、弹性好、耐磨、缩水率低、化学稳定性好的特点,主要用于牛仔、运动装、皮革制品、毛料及军服等的缝制。这里须注意的是,涤纶缝线熔点低,在高速缝纫时易熔融,堵塞针眼,导致缝线断裂,故不适合过高速度缝合的服装。b.锦纶缝纫线:锦纶缝纫线由纯锦纶复丝制造而成,分长丝线、短纤维线和弹力变形线三种,目前主要品种是锦纶长丝线。它的优点在于强伸度大、弹性好,其断裂长度高于同规格棉线三倍,因而适合于缝制化纤、呢绒、皮革及弹力等服装。锦纶缝纫线更大的优势在于透明缝纫线的发展,由于此线透明,和色性较好,因此减少和解决了缝纫配线的困难,发展前景广阔,不过限于目前市场上透明线的刚度太大,强度太低,线迹易浮于织物表面,加之其不耐高温,缝速不能过高,现主要用作贴花、摞边的缝制,而没有用于合缝。c.维纶缝纫线:由维纶纤维制成,其强度高,线迹平稳,主要用于缝制厚实的帆布、家具布、劳保用品等。d.腈纶缝纫线:由腈纶纤维制成,主要用作装饰线和绣花线,纱线捻度较低,染色鲜艳。混合缝纫线a.涤/棉缝纫线:采用65%的涤和35%的棉混纺而成。兼有涤和棉两者的优点,既能保证强度、耐磨、缩水率的要求,又能克服涤不耐热的缺陷,对高速缝纫适应。适用于全棉、涤/棉等各类服装。b.包芯缝纫线:以长丝为芯线,外包覆天然纤维而制得的缝纫线。其强度取决于芯线,而耐磨与耐热取决于外包纱。因此,包芯缝纫线适合于高速缝纫并需缝迹高强的服装。此外,缝纫线还可按卷装形式分成线圈、线管、线轴、线团、线球等,按用途分为缝纫用线、刺绣用线、工业用线等,这里不再详述。2缝纫线的质量及应用评定缝纫线质量的综合指标是可缝性。可缝性表示在规定条件下,
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