针织跟单第二章-针织面料

单击此处编辑母版标题样式,单击此处编辑母版文本样式,第二级,第三级,第四级,第五级,*,单击此处编辑母版标题样式,单击此处编辑母版文本样式,第二级,第三级,第四级,第五级,*,广东纺织职业技术学院,针织跟单,第二章,针 织 面 料,1,、针织面料常用术语,3,、针织面料的疵点及处理方法,2,、针织面料的生产过程及产量计算,主要内容：,二、针织面料的生产过程及产量计算,1,、针织面料的生产过程,纱线,纱线染色,编织,染色,/,水洗,热定型,成品织物,针织纱线,针织产品的过程,烘干,折布,脱水,染色洗水,计划,化验室打小样,修复,坯布,色布,浸轧,常温染色机,高温染色机,针刺设备,定型设备,纬编针织面料的生产工艺流程：（坯布）,原料准备,（,络纱,）,上机编织,落布（下布）,检验,入库,经编针织面料的生产工艺流程：（坯布）,原料准备,整经,穿经 编排链块（花纹凸轮）,编织,落布（下布）检验 入库,2,、产量计算,（,1,）亏磅计算,分为,扣部分亏磅,和,扣全亏磅,。计算公式如下：,扣全亏磅,=,（,1-,实磅率）,来单数量,扣部分亏磅,=,（标准率,-,实磅率）,来单数量,例,1,福安来纱,1800,磅,双方约定标准率,98.5%,本司抽磅实际来纱为,1730,磅,此纱是否应与客反映,?,应补纱多少磅,?,例,2,永合时来进口柜纱,38000,磅,双方约定标准率,99%,本司抽磅实际来纱为,37550,磅,此纱是否应与客反映,应补纱多少磅,?,实磅率,=1730/1800,100%=96.1%,低于,98.5%,应与客反映，因该客户为本司协议为扣部分亏磅客户,故客户应补纱数,=(98.5%-96.1%),1800=43.2(,磅,),实磅率,=37550/38000,100%=98.8%,低于,99%,应与客反映,因该客户为本司协议为扣全亏磅客户,故应补纱数,=(1-98.8%),38000=456(,磅,),。,（,2,）原料与织坯互算,1,）单一成份织坯,公式：织布数,=,来纱数,(1-,纱损率,),应用纱数,=,织布数,/(1-,纱损率,),例,3,：,1000,磅的进口纱，织损,2%,可织多少布,?,可织布数,=1000,(1-2%)=980,磅,2,）多个成份织坯排间及自动间坯,公式：织坯布数,=,来纱数,/,成份,(1-,纱损率,),来纱数,=,织布数,成份,/(1-,纱损率,),一种原料的来纱数,例,4,：,20,S,/1,色纱排间平纹，,A,红色,/B,宝蓝色；,A,：,5,毛；,B,：,6,毛；其中,A,色红色共来纱,100,磅，,B,色宝蓝色共来纱,150,磅；客给织损,3%,客户通知来纱尽织最多可织多少磅布？,可织布数：,红色：,100/45.45%,(1-3%)=213,磅,宝蓝色：,150/54.55%,(1-3%)=266.7,磅,最多可织布,213,磅。,(,以来纱最少的为准可织布数,),成份,A,色占,45.45%,，,B,色占,54.55%,；,3,）含拉架自动间或排间成份计算,例,5,：,32,S,/1,2,色纱,+20D,自动间拉架平纹，其中,20D,纱占,5%,，,32,S,/1,色纱占,95%,，间距排列：,A,色,100,毛，,B,色,105,毛,各色所占总成份百分比,?,A,色占成份：,100/(100+105),95%=46.34%,B,色占成份：,105/(100+105),95%=48.66%,总成份,=A,色占成分,46.34%+B,色占成分,48.66%+,拉架成分,5%=100%,。,如果此单的定单数是,1000,磅，那么,A,、,B,各需多少纱呢？,A,色应用纱数,=,订单数,1000,A,色占成分,46.34%/,纱损,96%=483,磅,B,色应用纱数,=,订单数,1000,B,色占成分,48.66%/,纱损,96%=507,磅,拉架应用纱数,=1000,5%/99%=51,磅,（,3,）扁机用纱计算,目前还没有一种能很准确的方式计算扁机用纱量及产量，通常是根据客人提供原料的粗细、纱长、疏密，织物组织的不同来大概计算扁机用纱量及产量。下面介绍粗略的计算方法，该方法准确率达,90,以上，但提花组织较复杂必须开机才能知道产量及其用纱量。,公式：,1,）打数与条数互换,条数,=,打数,12,2,）扁机领、袖用纱数,用纱磅数,=,长度,高度,变量,打数,3,）特殊扁机领、袖用纱数,生产磅数,/,打数,=,每打用纱磅数,长度单位为英寸,不同扁机领袖变量值见附表（注：长度及高度以,英寸,为单位）,纱 支,色 纱,胚 纱,备 注,领,袖,领,袖,40S/1X4,0.0097,0.0109,0.0102,0.0115,20S/1X2,30S/1X3,20S/1X3,0.0145,0.0164,0.0152,0.0172,30S/1X5,0.0154,0.0189,0.0162,0.0198,32S/1X4,0.0126,0.0144,0.0132,0.0151,30S/1X4,32S/1X5,0.0142,0.0182,0.0149,0.0191,36S/1X5,0.0141,0.0180,0.0149,0.0188,36S/1X6,0.0156,0.0191,0.0164,0.0200,40S/1X5,0.0133,0.0152,0.0140,0.0160,40S/1X6,0.0139,0.0164,0.0145,0.0172,例,6,：益盛,P/O:AQK-2198 20,S,/1,3,精棉扁机领，要求织尺寸,16-5/8,3,的扁机领,18300,条，客户应来纱多少磅？,作业：,1,、客戶要求织,500,磅的布，其中,A,色占,45.45%,，,B,色占,54.55%A,、,B,纱各需多少？,2,、,20,S,/1,色纱排间平纹，,A,红色,/B,黄色；,A,：,6,毛；,B,：,7,毛；其中,A,色红色共来纱,150,磅，,B,色克色共来纱,200,磅；客户给织损,3%,客户通知来纱尽织，最多可织多少磅布？,来纱磅数,=16.625,3,0.0145,18300/12=1102.8(,磅,),（,4,）日产量计算,目的：,如何排机？知道一个订单的日产是多少磅,在交货期内,需要安排多少台机进行生产。,前提：,了解机台情况（见,机台设备表,）,例如,40,S,/1,精梳棉,+20D,拉架平纹 要预,550,磅,/,台,/,天,一般情况下,根据参考产量的,70%,来预产量。,日产量计算公式：,每转产量（重量）,=,（纱长,/10000,）,总针数,毛数,583/,（纱支,1000000,）,2.2046,下布转数,=,下布重量,/,每转重量,棉类日产,=,纱长,/10000,总针数,毛数,583/,（纱支,1000000,）,转速,60,24,2.2046,此处纱长是,100,杖针的纱长,机器所开实际毛数,日产量计算公式：,化纤类日产,=,纱长,/10000,总针数,D,数,毛数,/9000000,转速,60,24,2.2046 ,（也适于计算拉架日产）,拉架布总产量,=,纱产量,+,拉架产量,标准产量,=,理论产量,标准效率。,(,目前公司自动间效率计,80%,、罗纹机效率计,85,、单面机效率计,90,),此处纱长是,100,杖针的纱长,机器所开实际毛数,备注（公式说明）：,1.,纱长是表示,100,支针的纱长,如,18.9(50,支,),纱长应是,37.8cm,。,2.,总针数可查设备表,如,18G30,总针数为,1740G,。,3.,毛数是表示机器所开实际毛数,如,96,毛的机开,80,毛,毛数为,80,毛。,4.,纱支是表示机器上所编织纱线的支数,32,S,/120,S,/1,如果机,器上所编织的纱线是,双纱,如,32,S,/1,2,实际纱支为,16,S,/1,。,5.,公式中,583,和,2.2046.,此数据是常量,计算时不变。,例,7,福安,20,S,/1,精单纱平纹布,24G30(2268G),纱长,32cm/100G,，开机,90,毛,，转速为,30,转,/,分,理论日产应为多少磅,?,课堂练习：（课后补充完成）,1,、计算,20,S,40,S,衬垫组织的理论日产量：（参数取第一次大作业的数据）,日产量,=32/10000*2268*90*583/(20*1000000)*30*60*24*2.2046,=1813,磅,拉架布成份计算,：（也可实测称重）,拉架比例,=B/(A+B)100%,A=(,纱的纱长,毛数,583/,纱支,),B=(,拉架纱长,毛数,拉架,D,数,/9),例,8,、永合时,32,S,/1,花灰,+40D,杜邦根拉架平纹,28G34 2976G,纱长,34.5cm/10.8cm/100G,转速为,25,转,/,分,计算拉架成份占,%?,此处纱长不限针数,指工艺一个循环开多少毛。,拉架,=10.8140/9=48,花灰,=34.51583/32=628,拉架成份,=48/(48+628)100%=7.09%,两种纱支成分计算,：（也可实测称重）,纱支,1,的比例,=A/(A+B),100%,A=,纱支,1,的纱长,毛数,583/,纱支,1,B=,纱支,2,的纱长,毛数,583/,纱支,2,例,9,添泰,AP243926 32,S,/1,2A,棉,+10,S,/1CVC,抓毛底双位衣,纱长：平纹（底纱）,39cm,，绑毛（面纱）,45cm,，毛（衬垫纱）,19cm/100G,；,32,S,/1A,棉成份占,%?,指工艺一个循环开多少毛。,此处纱长不限针数,32,S,/1=(39+45)3583/32=4591,10,S,/1=193583/10=3323,32,S,/1A,棉成份,4591/(4591+3323)100%=58%,备注（公式说明）：,1.,此处纱长不限针数,如,32.5cm,（,50G,）（,100G,）均可。,2.,毛数,指工艺一个循环开多少毛。如,拉架罗纹通常,2,毛纱,其中,1,毛纱带,1,毛拉架即,2,毛一个循环。,3.,公式中,583.9,是常数。,在实际排单过程中开生产单时输入开机毛数,转速时,系统自动能计算出理论产量,但实际由于车间各种原因达标率只有,6070%,。,（,5,）落布转数计算,单一原料下布转数公式：,纯棉下布转数,/50,磅,=389000000,纱支,/,总针数,/,纱长,/,毛数,两种原料下布转数公式：,拉架每转重量,=,纱长,毛数,总针数,D,数,/10000/900000/2.2046,棉纱每转重量,=,纱长,583,毛数,总针数,/10000/,100000,/2.2046/,纱支,下布转数,/50,磅,=50/(,拉架每转重量,+,棉纱每转重量,),（毛数是指机器所开毛数,纱长以,100G,计）,