纺织基本常识-有用啊解析

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF TEXTILE紡织基本常識原料 纺 织 染 整RAW MATERIAL SPINNING WEAVE DYEING FINISHING 即40S/1要比20S/1的纱支幼细GENERIC NAMES OF TEXTILE FIBERS-USA原料 纺织纤維專用名稱NATURAL FIBERS 天然纤維nCELLULOSE(VEGETABLE)纤維素纤維素(植物纤維植物纤維)nCOTTON 棉nFLAX OR LINEN 亚麻nHEMP 大麻nJUTE 黃麻nRAMIE 苎麻nMANILA HEMP 馬尼拉麻nMINERAL 礦物纤維礦物纤維ASBESTOS 石棉nKERATIN(ANIMAL)角蛋白(动物)nALPACA 駝羊nCAMEL HAIR 駱駝絨nCASHMERE 羊絨nHORSE HAIR 馬nMOHAIR 安哥拉山羊nRABBIT HAIR 兔毛nSILK BOMBYX TUSSAHn中国種桑蚕nWOOL 羊毛MAN-MADE FIBERS人造纤維nACETATE 醋酸纤维SECONDARYTRIACETATEnACRYLIC 腈纶nGLASS 玻璃nLYOCELL nMETALLIC 金属nMODACRYLIC 改性 腈纶nNYLON 6,66 锦纶,尼龍nNYTRIL nOLEFIN 聚烯烃类POLYETHYLENE 乙纶POLYPROPYLENE 丙纶nPOLYESTER 涤纶nRAYON 粘胶CUPRAMMONIUM 铜氨VISCOSE 粘胶人造丝 nRUBBER 橡胶nVINYON 维尼纶GENERIC NAMES OF TEXTILE FIBER(UK&EUROPE)英國及歐洲纤維專用名稱nWOOL,ALPACA,HAMA,CASHMERE.MOHAIR,ANGORA,nSILKnCOTTONnKAPOKnFLAX OR LINENnHEMPnJUTEnRAMIEnACETATEnCUPROnMODALnTRIACETATEnASBESTORSnPAPER YARNnVISCOSEnACRYLICnCHLOROFIBREnFLUOROFIBREnMODACRYLICnNYLONnPOLYMIDEnLYOCELLnPOLYESTERnPOLYETHYLENEnPOLYPROPYLENEnPOLYURETHANEnVINYALAnELASTANEnGLASS FIBREFROM FIBRE TO FABRIC由纤維到织物nFROM RAW MATERIALS GO THROUGH SPINNING PROCESS TO RAW YARN AFTER DRAWING BE COME TO CONE OF YARN,READY FOR WEAVEING OR KNITTINGnTHERE ARE THREE TYPE OF FABRICWOVEN FABRICKNITTING FABRICNON-WOVENn纺织-先紡後织,n纺是將原料不論是植,动物或是人造纤維都須要經過不同的程序後,纺成不同粗細的紗.之後以便供給织布或其他不同行業用.n织-常見多為平织或針织,织物可分為三类平织針织無纺布 不织布YARN IDENTIFICATION 一般常見的 紗支表示方式 SPUN YARN 捻紗SYMBOL 表示:s nRing Spun 環錠 紗,各種尺寸Carded 普梳,Comb Yarn精梳nOpen End(OE)氣流纺,nYARN COUNT 紗支LARGE NUMBER MORE THINER THE YARNn SINGLE YARN 40/1 32/1 nPLY YARN 40/2 50/2FILAMENT YARN(MAN MADE FIBERS)長絲紗SYMBOL表示:d DENIER nYARN COUNT 纱支LARGE NUMBER MORE THICK YARNn150d/144f 150 Denier yarn size form by 144 filamentnMicro fiber each filament yarn size under 1Denier.n長絲紗-是由一根或多根連續平行較細的長絲組合成紗,一般以d Denier 旦尼尔,是以9,000米長,紗有多少克重量.1d=9,000 米的紗重1克重.D 值越小,纱线越细,即75d要比150d的纱支幼细.超細纤維-紗支內每一根長絲小於1d 祢為超細纤維.75D/96F,75d粗細由96根長絲組合成的紗.n捻紗-目前所讲的纱支数大都是指“英制支数”，用英文字“S”表示.它的定义是：在公定回潮率，重一磅的纱线，它的长度有几个 840 码，就称为几支纱线.纱线越粗，S值就越小，纱线越细，则“S”值越大.即40S/1要比20S/1的纱支幼细.FABRIC CONTENTS,织物成份BASE ON THE RAW MATERIALSn100%COTTONn65%COTTON 35%POLYESTER BLEND YARN IS CROSS SPUN TWO MATERIALS CROSS WEAVING TWO MATERIALSn依原材料表示100%棉65%棉35%涤 有混紡或是交织基本织布组织nPlain Twill SatinZ S Twilln平紋 斜紋 色丁緞紋平织布n平织布组织是由二根紗,簡單交织在织布機上組成.這二根紗 一般祢作经及緯 在英文表示為 WARP,及 WEFT.又可示為ENDS 单根头分 及 PICKS 梭(一般国内是以公制计算头分及梭敉數)n經紗 一般在布面上為密度較高,同時是与布边平行,紗品貭及捻度較高.织布时一般要浆纱.n緯紗 是由布辺到布辺与經向交錯,不需浆纱.n依织布機的装備不同,可织造不同組织多種不同的布,一般通用有平紋(府綢),斜紋布,可分為S TWILL 左斜或Z TWILL 右斜,左斜為左高向右低,反之為右斜,通常經向双股紗時為右斜.這以布正面檢示為準.n另有色丁鍛紋,小提花,大提花.及有絨毛织物如灯芯絨及平絨(絨是在织後再割剪而成的)n织物的組织及经緯密度直接関係到布面外觀,手感,厚薄,功能效果,及强度耍求.一般平织物表達方式n100%COTTON 128 X60/40/2X16/1s 3/1 Z TWILL 57/8”成份128 经向每一英吋有128 根 40支双股紗60 緯向每一英吋有60 根16支紗3 上1下右斜紋织法布寬為可裁(針孔內)57英吋針织布n針织布是使用一根連續紗所組成的布.主要分成二大類 weft knits 緯編 及warp knits 經編.nWeft Knits 緯編织的紗是水平方向,由一端到另一端,一般常見的針织布多為园機針织 circular knitting.胚布及成品經常成园筒状,或經開辺成平布.nWarp Knits 經編的紗是沿布延升方向,一般经編針织布的彈性較緯編布差.n針织布亦有提花,大提花,等不同织法,及疋染色或色织.n基本針织布如右边所示BASIC WEFT KNITSPECIALIZED WEFT KNITJERSEY单面DOUBLE KNITS双面RIB罗纹PILE KNITS绒毛KNITTED TERRY毛圈INTERLOCK KNITS双面針织物組织表達方式n80%COTTON 20%POLYESTER 24g 270 GMS/SM 58”VELOUREn成份n針织布以布重,針數及布幅為最主要表示,一般針數(gauge)是以每英吋多少針,不同布種有不同計算方式.但越高針數則越細的布面.24g 為針织機的針敉,270 GMS 重量是以每平方米或每平方碼多少克重.有時又可用每碼重 58”可裁布幅寬度.如用每碼重计算一定要知布幅Veloure 為布的組织 DYED AND FINISHED 染色及整理nPIECE DYED 疋染MADE THE GREIGE THEN DYED先织後染nDYE CLASS:染料分類DIRECT DYES 直接SULPHUR DYES 硫化VAT DYE 還原(士林)INDIGO DYES 靛藍REACTIVE DYES 活性ACID DYES 酸性染料DISPERSE DYES 分散染料PIGMENT 顏料nYARN DYED 色织DYED THE YARN THEN WEAVE OR KNIT 先染後织可使用不同染料nPIGMENT-DYED OR PRINTED 顏料染色或印花nPRINTING 印花ROLLER 輥筒印花ROTARY SCREEN 园网印花FLAT SCREEN 平网印花HEAT TRANSFER 熱転印紙印花DYE CLASS 染料分類nDIRECT DYES WIDE RANGE COLORS,CHEAP AND SIMPLE,POOR WET AND LIGHT FASTNESS CELLULOSICn直接染料 僅用於植物纤維,便宜及橾做簡單,各種顏色可選用,惟對濕擦及日光牢度差nSULPHUR DYES DARK AND DULL MAINLY BROWN,KHAKI,BLUE AND BLACK WASHING,DRYCLEARING,LIGHT AND PERSPIRATION FASTNESS IS GOOD BUT RUBBING IS POOR.-CELLULOSICn硫化染料 多用於深及暗的顏色,一般為棕,卡其,藍及黑色.不受漂.對水洗,乾洗,日光牢度好,但磨擦牢度差.nVAT DYES INSOLUBLE DYESTUFF WITHOUT SPECIAL REDUCTION TREATMENT.MAINLY DARK HUES BUT BRIGHTER AND BROADER RANGE THAN SULPHUR DYES.EXCELLENT FASTNESS TO WASHING,LIGHT AND PERSPIRATION.FAST TO CHLORINE OXIDIZING BLEACHES.-CELLULOSICn還原染料 又稱士林染料是種不溶性染料,用於深及鮮豔色,水洗,日光牢度很好.而且可受漂.nREACTIVE DYES FULL RANGE OF COLORS.NOT FAST TO WASHING.FAIR TO GOOD FASTNESS TO LIGHT.-CELLULOSIC,PROTEIN FIBER,(WOOL,SILK)n活性染料 利用化学反應与纤維接合,各種顏色,及牢度良好.nACID DYES COMPLETE COLORS RANGE,BRIGHT AND EASY APPLICATION.MAINLY APPLY TO PROTEIN FIBER AND NYLONn酸性染料 容易染色,有各種顏色,主要用於蛋白質及尼龍絲.nDISPERSE DYES FULL RANGE OF COLORS.SMALL PARTICLE FOR EASE TO PENETRATE.SPECIAL DESIGNED FOR DYEING POLYESTERn分散染料 有各種顏色,染料分子小容易穿透上色.主要用於涤綸nPIGMENT COMPLETE RANGE OF COLORS,NOT A TRUE DYESTUFF.INSOLUBLE AND HAS NO AFFINITY TO FIBER.MECHANICALLY ADHERED ON THE FIBERSURFACE BY THE USE OF BINDER.PERFORMANCE AND FASTNESS PROPERTIES DEPEND ON NATURE OF BINDER.POOR RUBBING AND SOLVENT FASTNESSn顏料 非正式的染料,無法溶解与紗結合,是利用接合劑与布表面粘合色牢度及功能是依接合劑而定.磨擦牢度不好.nMETHOD OF DYEING,PIECE DYED 平织疋染色方式JIGGER DYEING 卷染BATCH DYEING 浸染 針织CONTINUOUS DYEING 連續壓染nFINISHINGMERCEIZATION 絲光 PEACHSKIN 桃皮絨效果SANDING 磨毛BRUSHING 抓毛COATING 涂層WASHING 洗水BLEACHING 漂白nGARMENT DYE 成衣染色nPFP-PREPARING FOR PRINTING 前处理印花用半漂布nPFD-PREPARING FOR DYEING 前处理染色用半漂布 CONTINUOUS DYEING INDIGO DYEINGFINISHINGNON-WOVEN 無纺布,不织布nA TEXTILE STRUCTURE PRODUCED BY BONDING OR INTERLOCKING OF FIBERS OR BOTH;ACCOMPLISHED BY MECHANICAL,CHEMICAL.THERMAL,OR SOLVENT MEANS AND COMBINATIONS.n是纤维经由机械,化学,热溶及粘合而成,nFOR INTERLING,NEEDLE PUNCHING OR SPUNLACED,AND THE DISPOSAL GARMENTS.n主要用於衬,及用针刺法或水刺法做成填充棉,及用於即弃成衣等.n一般以重量厚度表示.CARE LABELLING 洗水标nTHE FUNCTION OF A CARE LABEL IS TO GUIDE CONSUMERS AND CLEANERS IN THE SELECTION OF THE BEST CLEANING PROCEDURE,FOR MAINTENANCE OF THE GARMENTS AESTHETIC APPEARANCE AND TEXTURE.n洗水标最主要功能是让消费者选挥正确清洗方式,使成衣得以保持良好品质功能及外觐.nTHE CARE LABEL ALSO DEFINES THE STANDARD RANGE OF COLOR FASTNESS,DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AND APPEARANCE RETENTION OF TA GARMENT WHEN SUGGESTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED.n洗水标是依照成衣布料的缩率,色牢度等品质要求而订定的.nWITH PROPER CARE LABELLING,YOUR HIGH QUALITY PRODUCT WILL BE VIRTUALLY COMPLAINT-FREE AND THERE WILL BE LESS RISK OF DAMAGEED GOODS CAUSED BY IMPROPER CLEARNING METHODS.n依照正确的洗水标示,可减少因对本身产品不当清洗操作而引起的投诉nTHE EUROPEAN CARE LABELLING CONSISTS OF AT LEAST FOUR AND SOMETIMES FIVE SYMBOLS THOSE YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED BY NOW.n正常欧卅的洗水标由4 或5 图型表示,我想各位应都已认识.ZIPPER SIZE 拉链尺寸SIZE尺寸WIDTH OF TEETH OR COIL WHEN ZIPPER IS CLOSED(mm)拉好後的牙寬12.7 2.923.0 3.63,44.0 5.55,65.7 6.67,8,9,8.1 9.11011.4 12.2ZIPPER SIZESIZEWIDTH OF SLIDER MOUTH(mm)依拉鏈头的嘴寬度1,2UP TO 3.83,4OVER 3.8 TO 5.75,6OVER 5.7 TO 7.07,8,9,10OVER 7.0BUTTON 鈕釦nBUTTON ARE MADE OF MANY DIFFERENT MATERIALS SUCH AS METAL,PLASTIC,WOOD,SHELL,PEARL,CRYSTAL.n可用不同材料製做鈕釦,如金属,塑膠,木貭,貝殼類,真珠,水晶nTHEY ARE ALSO BE MADE IN MANY DIFFERENT SHAPE SUCH ROUND,SQUARE,ETC.NO MATTER HOW THE BUTTON IS SHARPED,THE SIZE OF BUTTON IS MEASURED AS ITS GREATEST WIDTH AND IS EXPRESSED AS LIGNES(A LIGNES IS 1/40 OF AN INCH).n有各種不同的形狀如园,方等.不論何種形狀,鈕釦尺寸,是依最寬為基準,以萊尼稱.1萊尼=1/40 英吋(約0.635mm)SIZE OF BUTTON 鈕釦尺寸 LIGNEmm127.6148.91610.21811.42012.72113.52214.02314.6LIGNEmm2415.22717.12817.83019.13220.33421.63622.94025.4