外国语言文学系毕业论文

广西民族大学相思湖学院 本科毕业论文（设计）论文题目： 从牛仔裤看美国文化 系 部： 外国语言文学系 专 业： 英 语 年级班级： 08英语2班 学 号： 108333080206 学生姓名： 吴 蝉 栖 指导教师： 唐春碧 职称 助教 ContentAbstract in ChineseiAbstract in EnglishiiChapter 1 Introduction1Chapter 2 The Inventor and Evolution of the Jeans22.1 General Development Trend of Blue Jeans22.2 Introduction of the Inventor32.3 The Evolution Process3Chapter 3 Symbols of Jeans63.1 Jeans and Work Class63.2 Jeans and Female Liberation8Chapter 4 Jeans and Culture124.1 Relationship between Jeans and American West Cowboy Culture124.2 Jeans and the Modern American Society15Conclusion21Bibliography22Acknowledgements23广西民族大学相思湖学院本科生毕业论文（设计）从牛仔裤看美国文化摘 要在过去三十年中，牛仔裤已流行于世并被世人视为美国的标志。牛仔裤，首次于时尚文化中亮相，并毫无疑问地成为了美国对时尚事业发展作出了最大贡献。但是，直到20世纪60年代， 牛仔裤才大量流入市场从而成为至今都一直备受众人欢迎的服饰。在时尚发展史中，没有如何服饰可以代替牛仔裤特有的充满争议、模棱两可的地位。“牛仔裤”却一直被认为是美国文化的象征，特别是在旧时代美国的西部地区。牛仔裤跨越了等级、性别、年龄、宗教、国家和思想的界限这就是其能普遍吸引人的原因。牛仔裤从一种只与苦力活相关的服饰，发展成了一种休闲服饰。当联系其背景研究时，发现牛仔裤不仅是一条裤子，它还蕴含着不同历史内涵，传递着非凡的文化意义。 本文主要探讨了牛仔裤文化的多个方面：首先，文章介绍了牛仔裤发明者和其发展史；其次，探讨了牛仔裤的象征性意义，包括牛仔裤和工人阶级的关系以及与女性解放主义的关系。最后介绍了牛仔裤和文化的关系，特别是牛仔与美国西部文化以及现在文化的联系。牛仔裤作为一个国家的标志，无疑包含一些文化的含意，文章从牛仔裤与美国西部牛仔文化和几个常见的现代文化方面（包括牛仔裤与好莱坞、音乐、嬉皮士文化、美国梦的关系）下手，可以更透彻地了解美国文化的知识，更好地掌握到牛仔裤在上世纪所经历的发展变化以及见证如今潮流走向的发展，以便英语学习者能在更好的了解美国文化的基础上进行语言的交流。关键词：牛仔裤；发展；标志；美国文化Blue Jeans, more than a Pair of Pants-Learn American Culture from the Blue JeansAbstractBlue jeans have attained such world wide popularity that they have considered as an American icon. Blue jeans were made greatest contribution to fashion history of America. It was not until the late 1960s, however, that blue jeans moved into the mass market and became the universally worn clothing item as well as in today. In the history of fashion, no other garment has served as an example of status ambivalence and ambiguity than blue jeans. It has crossed over class, gender, age, regional, national and ideological lines, which is the reason why it can attract so many peoples attention. Blue jeans have evolved from a garment associated exclusively with hard work to one associated with leisure. It conveys different meanings when combining the background of it: Jeans is not only a pair of pants which contains different historical connotation and extraordinary cultural implication.This article introduces many aspects of jeans: first, it introduces the inventor and development history process of jeans; second, it illustrates some symbolic meanings of the jeans: the relationship between jeans and working-class, female liberation, from which we can learn some historical knowledge by jeans and its significance from the two important society aspects. Third, it discusses the relationship between blue jeans and culture especially American west cowboy culture and modern culture. Blue jeans, as a countrys icon, it definitely contains some culture implication, not only can we have a survey on the American west cowboy culture, as well as the modern culture, including its relationship between jeans and Hollywood, music, hippies and the American dreams. We can gain some knowledge of American culture through the blue jeans by analysis from the common aspects of the culture and easily access to the jeans evolution, changes during the last century, and witness its trend development, which can promote linguistic communication for language learners.Key words: Blue jeans; Development; Symbols; American cultureiiChapter 1 IntroductionJeans are trousers made from denim. Some of the earliest American blue jeans were made by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss, in 1873. Starting in the 1950s, jeans originally designed for cowboys and then became popular among teenagers. Jeans are now a very popular form of casual dress around the world, and have been so for decades. They come in many styles and colors; however, “blue jeans” are particularly identified with American culture, especially the American Old West.Blue jeans are almost certainly Americas greatest contribution to fashion history and which was originally appeared in Fashion Culture and Identity, the author, Fred Davis (1925-1992), a former professor of sociology at the University of California at San Diego, shows how this staple of the American wardrobe has become a symbol of many of our most enduring, and contradictory cultural values through a historical demonstration of the shifting implied meaning of blue jeans金衡山美国大众文化 南京大学出版社2011年7月P25. Whats the influence of blue jeans? How can it become the symbol of American culture? Whats the hidden meaning of the blue jeans? This article will introduce the background, development, analysis from many aspects: the evolution of blue jeans, the relationship between work classes, female, cowboy culture and the modern American society, in order to give you the good answers for those questions.Chapter 2 The Inventor and Evolution of the Jeans2.1 General Development Trend of Blue JeansJeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by workers, especially in the factories during World War II. During this period, mens jeans had the zipper down the front, whereas womens jeans had the zipper down the right side. By the 1960s, both mens and womens jeans had the zipper down the front. Historic photographs indicate that in the decades before it became a staple of fashion, until 1960, Levi Strauss denominated its flagship product waist overalls rather than “jeans”. During the 1960s the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear. Smith, Nancy MacDonnell (2003). The Classic Ten: poella grandey gruesa The True Story of the Little Black Dress and Nine Other Fashion Favorites. Penguin. ISBN978-0142003565 P42 After James Dean popularized them in the movie Rebel without a Cause, wearing jeans by teenagers and youth and/or young adults became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s. Because of this, they were sometimes banned in theaters, restaurants and schools. Nowadays, however, jeans are worn to many types of occasions and events, even some events that especially require formal attire.Michael Belluomo, editor of Sportswear International Magazine, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was “the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit.” He continued, “Limbo hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals and other touches, and sold them for $200.” In the 1970s the denim industry introduced the Stone-Washing technique developed by GWG also known as “Great Western Garment Co.” Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method, Levis By the Numbers (Mens). World flow Knowledge. Retrieved 2010-12-31 which he helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where jeans are now a wardrobe staple. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s to the point where jeans are now a wardrobe staple, with the average North American owning seven pairs. True Blue And Green, Too: Denim Is Fashionable and Renewable. Cotton Lifestyle Monitor. Cotton Incorporated. May 18, 2009. Currently, jeans may be seen worn by people of all genders and ages.2.2 Introduction of the InventorIn 1962 American Fabrics magazine referred to denim as an “honest, substantial, forthright and unpretentious fabric.” if a textile could apply for a job can we understand such compliment, but after all, an equal opportunity employer does have his or her limitations! Still, denim and blue jeans have come a long way from Levi Strausss original purposecasual garment, while the work pants still popular among the California coal miners in the mid nineteenth century. The Bavarian peddler imported the cotton fabric with blue dyed thread from the French city of Nimes and it is presumed that this is where the term “denim” comes from. Whatever their origin, denim is here to stay and blue jeans have become an established attitude about clothing and lifestyle.First fashioned in the mid-nineteenth-century American West by Morris Levis Strauss, a Bavarian Jewish peddler newly arrived in San Francisco; the trousers then as now were made from a sturdy, indigo-dyed cotton cloth said to have originated in Nimes, France. A garment similar to that manufactured by Levi Strauss for gold miners and outdoor laborers is said to have been worn earlier in France by sailors. The distinctive copper riveting at the pants pockets and other stress points were the invention of Jacob Davis, a tailor from Carson City, Nevada, who joined the Levi Strauss firm in 1873, and some twenty years after the garments introduction.2.3 The Evolution ProcessAnnals of Blue JeansTIMEBACKGROUNDCHARATERISTICS1840S-1850Gold Rush(1849)In 1853, Levis Strauss invented the first jean1880sThe United States economic situation was not very wellin the late 19th century， jeans were firmly and specific characteristics of the male, and it draw a clear line between men and women.1906-1920The Great DepressionDenim work clothes become the attire element of common people and female1914.8-1918.11The World War IDenim work clothes become the uniform of female, allowed women to join with the men in the frontline in a special way.1920sThe Great DepressionThe worlds first zipper jeans Made by the UK jeans companyLee; in 1924, lee focused on producing jeans;In1926，the company produced the first zipper jeans. 1930sAcross the Mississippi1934: Levi Strauss created the First Women Dressing;In 1935, the United States Vogue magazine issued the womens overalls. From then on, it added the leisure, entertainment elements. Since then, cowboy clothing was pop up. In 1938, Levis produced specifically for ladies of the design jeans.1940sWorld War II(1939.9-1945.9) The Ideology of ThriftyIn 1939, the second world war broke out. It caused a worldwide shortages, the United States government ordered the garment industry to save material. It made many details of jeans was disappeared and became coarser.With its excellent characteristics of endurable, jeans become a battlefield munitions.1950sEconomy RecoveryAfter the World War II, the jeans were popular in the Hollywood, into Europe, Japan, as well as among the Hollywood stars, rock singers.In 1985, about 90% of the American teenagers have at least one pair of jeans.1960s-1970sThe Vietnam War(1962.2-1973.1)The Vietnam War had caused a wave of anti-war; jeans became the content of the anti-war. And it was the best expression of their feelings.In 1964, all young men or women were wearing the blue jeans and joined in the big rally against the war, of the university of California, Berkeley.In the end of 1960s, Hippies appeared in the San Francisco.1980sEconomy and Society Development PeriodThe cowboy style appeared with the characteristics of diversification and artistry.1990s-NowEconomy and Society Development PeriodEver-changing styles combined with the development of Hip-hop, rock and roll and the other fields of the culture.Chapter 3 Symbols of JeansAs we can clearly know the development process of jeans above, we can have the further study on the symbolic meanings of the jeans by combining the history background. This chapter is mainly introduces the relationship between jeans and work-class, including the special symbol of blue jeans in the old times, causes of this phenomenon and the trend change. In the other part, we can make a comparison between the different periods of the jeans, so as to know the important meaning for female liberation.3.1 Jeans and Work ClassMore than a century went by, however, before this workingmans garment become the popular clothing as today; it was still used for the workmens uniforms. For it was not until the late 1960s that the blue jeans, after several failed moves in previous decades into a broader mass market, strikingly crossed over nearly all class, gender, age, regional, national, and ideological lines to become the universally worn and widely accepted item of garment they are today. 3.1.1 The Special Symbol of Blue Jeans in the Old Times and Causes of This Phenomenon.When we mentioned blue jeans, the working class image appeared in our mind. It centralizes the manual labor, ruggedness, activity and strong physicality. These implications similarly try to deny the diversity of classes, the robustness of body implied by jeans allows the middle-class to link them to the manual labor, which is selected from a group of significance (which is the dignity of manual labor and production capacity other than subordinate position and nature of being exploited). Jeans can afford a meaning of the U.S working ethic in particular class.Why it became the symbol of the working class? To begin with, considering its origins and longtime association with workingmen, hard physical labor, the outdoors, and the American West, much of the blue jeans fundamental mystique seems to emanate from populist sentiments of democracy, independence, equality, freedom, and fraternity. This makes for a sartorial symbolic complex at war, even if rather indifferently for nearly a century following its introduction, with class distinctions, elitism, and snobbism, dispositions extant nearly as much in jeans-originating America as in the Old World. It is not surprising, therefore, that the first non-“working stiffs” to become attached to blue jeans and associated denim wear were painters and other artists, mainly in the southwest United States, in the late 1950s and 1940s. Besides, jeans were cheap, and, at least at first, good fit hardly mattered. These advantages cater to the need of the working class. 3.1.2 The Symbolic Changes of JeansSome Americans consider jeans to be the national uniform or costume. Unlike any garment of the past, a pair of jeans has the unique ability to tell others from different classes, backgrounds and status. Denim has become a garment accessible to everyone. It has crossed over class, gender, and age, regional, national and ideological lines- reasons behind its largely appeal. Therefore, we can found some symbolic changes of jeans.Blue jeans have evolved from a garment associated exclusively with hard work to one associated with leisure. How it the work clothes has transformed into the hottest items available on the consumer market? How can a kind of clothing with low culture (late nineteenth-century society would of considered it as such) become an change of the classic trickle-down theory. Blue jeans were the first to accomplish a rather revolutionary cultural achievement-bring upper class status to a lower class garment. This process of elevating a product of low culture/fashion to that of high culture/fashion is what we called, the gentrification of blue jeans. As a result of this phenomenon, jeans have the ability to conceal class distinction. When a person wears blue jeansno matter President Bill Clinton or a truck driver-the viewer can not judge the beholders status from the jeans. This power to overcome class distinction accounts for its popularity. Blue jeans make Americans more endure. They embody the notion that their country of origin was founded on the principles of anti-status, democracy and inclusiveness. What do Elvis Presley, James Dean, Marlon Brando and all the 19th century cowboys and gold rush miners have in common? Their blue jeans! To the cowboys and miners, the pants were durable work clothes that molded to a “personal garment”. To the “rebel” movie icons of the 1950s, jeans symbolized individualism and social revolt. Today, jeans can personify the people and all that is good about America and its democratic values of independence and equality.3.2 Jeans and Female LiberationThe new clothes jeans express profoundly democratic values. There are no distinctions of wealth or status, no elitism; people confront one another shorn of these distinctions.CHARLES A. REICH The Greening of America金衡山美国大众文化 南京大学出版社2011年7月P26When mentioned the symbolic meanings of jeans, we also can think of that, it is the symbol for female liberation. The jeans indicated the profoundly democratic values, which includes the influence on the female liberation. The physical characteristics of jeans and the nature of strong work not only reflect the work itself, but also they undertake the meaning of naturalness and sexuality. Natural is an adjectives, it is always used to represent the freedom. This implicated group can refract the power, manual labor and mens sports performance, the womens sexuality as well. In the society of male-dominance, women have been disciplined to show their social unique self-respect and sexy characteristics on their appearance of the body. Despite women have already initiated and sustained a feminist movements, some women expand the guerilla war on the discrimination constantly, and win some tiny and short-term victories, which make their enemies tremble with fear and helps themselves occupy some sites (no matter how small they are). Patriarchy gradually and reluctantly does change in order to response the womens actions.Of course, this kind of difference of gender is not the fundamental problem, but the difference is the battlefield where women can use the right of control of the masculinity and femininity. Many women participate in the construction of the meaning related to jeans that physical characteristics are more masculinity, it is like the container that many men are to be more feminine.3.2.1 The Female Status before the Jeans was Born Before the female jeans were born, it only referred to the manual labor, ruggedness, activity and strong physicality. These implications similarly try to deny the diversity of classes, the robustness of body implied by jeans allows the middle-class to link them to the manual labor selected from a group of significance. Around 1910, this was a key year of the status change. Women wearing pants on a bike was no longer illegal. After the World War I, more and more women went out for work, and into economic and professional fields which were only entered by men. These new work requested that only women wear pants can do the jobs better. The 1920s is the significant period to womens liberation. But in not long ago, women were not allowed to wear trousers. (Although in China, Japan and Korea, trousers have been women traditional clothing, but in the western society, only the man can wear trousers). Today it seems very ridiculous, but women can wear pants just in the recent century. In Europe, it once had a law which prohibited the women to dress trousers. In 1900, the women who worn pants were all rebel and masculine women. Even in the beginning of the twentieth century, most of the women were still worn the long skirt.万青衣着时尚是一种深刻的社会文化从牛仔裤来看性别权力关系的变迁见：淮南师范学院报2006年第5期第8卷（总第39期）P50 Why that is happen? Because, the clothing fashion expect a man who can wear “looks much more like” a man, while the women can dress “look much more like” a woman. Thus, in a very long period of time, the dress can represent “woman”, in fact, they are sometimes has been used to refer to a woman in a kind of insulting way, and trousers represented “man”. 3.2.2 The Female Status after the Jeans Was Born It is women who can bring empathy, tolerance, insight, patience and persistence to government which qualities we naturally have and have had to develop because of our suppression by men. The women of a nation mold its mor