缝纫线迹基本知识.doc

缝纫线迹基本知识stitch 线迹，针脚，粤针步，线步线迹的分类形式很多，年，国际标准化组织对线迹的种类，编号进行了规定，将标准线迹分为大类：100类 - 链式线迹200类 - 仿手工线迹300类 - 琐式线迹400类 - 多线链式线迹500类 - 包缝线迹600类 - 覆盖线迹100类中最常用的是101和103两种101和103都是是单线链式线迹，103常用于暗线挑缝300中最常用的是301，304，308和320其中301称单针平缝线迹，又是最最常用的线迹，304两点人字线迹，308三点人字线迹，比301更有弹性400类中最常用的是401，402，407401又叫直线型双线链式线迹，又一条针线一条钩线组成在底层缝料的底面利用相互交错和相互交圈形成锁链状线迹402又称双针网底线迹，又两条针线和一条钩线组成，通常用于针织裤子的侧缝和手套背面的装饰线条407表面如三条平行的301线迹，底层则为网状结构，主要用于车缝橡筋到内裤内衣上500类中最常用的有504，505，512，514504和505都是三线包缝线迹504广泛用于制衣业的锁边工序，505主要针对中厚料512和514是四线包缝又称安全线迹都由两条针线两条钩线组成，只是钩线与针线的交圈方式上两阵稍有不同600类中最常用的是602，605，607三种602又称二针网面线迹，主要用于针织捏仪，运动服装等605又称三针网面线迹主要用语衣服上缝橡津，切滚条和拼接缝的缝合等工序607是四针网面线迹，有四条针线知识比605加了一条阵线其他类似综上所述，600类主要用于针织服装的滚边，滚领，折边，拼接缝和装饰花边等工序，其实也就是绷缝啦; )bartack，（bar tack，bar-tack） 套结，倒回针，加固缝，粤打枣flat-lock stitch，（flat lock stitch），covering stitch 覆盖线迹，绷缝线迹interlock stitch 联锁线迹，多线链式线迹single thread chain stitch 单线链式线迹，单线链状线，粤单线锁链底针步，（101线迹），（用于假缝，如袋口）103线迹 - blind stitch 暗缝，暗缲针缝，粤挑脚，301线迹 - lock stitch，plain stitch 锁式线迹，平缝线迹，普通线迹，粤平车针步，（最常见的线迹）304线迹 - zigzag lock stitch 曲折锁式线迹，锯齿形锁式线迹，Z形锁式线迹，之字形平车针步，粤人字形平车针步，（底面线都是锁式线迹）401线迹 - single needle chain stitch 单针链式线迹，单针链状针步，粤单针锁链底针步404线迹 - zigzag chain stitch 曲折链式线迹，锯齿形链式线迹，Z形链式线迹，粤人字锁链底针步，（面线是锁式线迹，底线是链式线迹）406线迹 - 2 needles bottom cover stitch 双针底部覆盖线迹，粤双针网底针步，（用于腰带袢，针织服装的袖口、下摆等）407线迹 - 3 needles bottom cover stitch 三针底部绷缝线迹，粤三针网底针步408线迹 - 2 needles chain stitch with cover thread 双针链式表面覆盖线迹，粤双针网面锁链底针步503线迹 - 2 threads overedge stitch 双线拷边，双线包边，粤双线钑骨504线迹 - overlock stitch，coveredge stitch，3 threads overedge stitch 包缝线迹，拷边线迹，锁边线迹，三线拷边，三线包边，粤三线钑骨，（最常见的拷边线迹）512线迹 - mock safety stitch 假线迹，模拟线迹，（用于弹性面料接缝）514线迹 - 2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch 双针四线拷边，双针四线包边，粤双针四线钑骨，（用于弹性面料接缝）515线迹(401+503) - 4 threads safety stitch 四线安全线迹，粤四线安全针步516线迹(401+504) - safety stitch，5 threads safety stitch 五线拷边，五线锁边，安全线迹，五线包边安全线迹，粤五线钑骨602线迹 - 2 needles 4 threads cover stitch 双针四线绷缝线迹605线迹 - 3 needles 5 threads cover stitch 三针五线绷缝线迹606线迹 - 4 needles 9 threads cover stitch，（flatlock stitch） 四针九线平式绷缝线迹607线迹 - 4 needles 6 threads cover stitch，（flatseamer/flatlock stitch） 四针六线平式绷缝线迹, pearl stitch 珠式线迹，（Used in knitting，for fancy borders and edges，one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made. Because of this，he received the nickname of perley wilson.）-线迹服饰工艺知识平缝线迹PLAIN STITCH ,FLAT STITCH疏缝线迹BASTING STITCH ,TACKING STITC绷缝线迹COVERING STITCH ,FLAT -LOCK STITCH绗缝线迹QUILTED STITCH嵌缝线迹CORD STITCH面缝线迹TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH暗缝线迹INVISIBLE STITCH ,BLIND STITCH缲缝线迹SLIP STITCH折缝线迹FELL STITCH倒缝线迹REVERSIBLE STITCH , BACKWARD STITCH包缝线迹OVERLOCK STITCH ,OVERCASTING STITCH ,OVEREDGE锁式线迹LOCK STITCH ,LOCKSTITCH链式线迹CHAIN STITCH联式线迹CHAINLOCK STITCH人字线迹HERRINGBONE STITCH羽状线迹FEATHER STITCH珠式线迹PEARL STITCHZ形线迹CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH角形线迹ANGLE STITCH弓形线迹ARCHED STITCH锯齿形状线迹PICOT STITCH ,ZIGZAG STITCH贝壳形状线迹SHELL STITCH网眼形状线迹BASKET STITCH蜂窝形状线迹HONEYCOMB STITCH直形线迹STRAIGHT STITCH双十字形状线迹DOUBLE STITCH交叉线迹，十字线迹CROSS STITCH圆形线迹ROUND STITCH廓形线迹OUTLINE STITCH曲折形线迹ZIGZAG SITITCH变形线迹CHANGE STITCH钩编线迹CROCHET STITCH织补线迹DARNING STITCH刺绣线迹EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH装饰线迹ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH花式线迹FANCY STITCH点划线迹DOT DASH STITCH对称线迹COUNTER STITCH比翼线迹FLY STITCH特殊线迹SPECIAL STITCH复合线迹COMBINATION STITCH, SPLIT STITCH复式线迹DOUBLE ACTION STITCH双针线迹TWICE STITCH双重线迹TWICE STITCH三重线迹TRIPLE STITCH缝式线迹SEAM STITCH加固线迹FASTENING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH打结线迹KNOTTING STITCH扎缚线迹PADDING STITCH袖褶线迹SHIRRING STITCH伸缩线迹STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH滚边线迹BINDING STITCH卷边线迹HEMMING STITCH暗卷缝线迹BLINDING HEMMING STITCH拼合线迹ABUTTING STITCH间断线迹BROKEN STITCH跳针线迹SKIPPING STITCH安全线迹SAFETY STITCH手针缝法缭针法SLIP STITCH拱针法PRICK STITCH明缲针法FELL STITCH暗缲针法BLING HEMMING STITCH环针法-CATCH STITCH叠针法FASTENING STITCH扎针法PAD STITCH扳针法DIAGONAL BASTING绗针法QUILTING STITCH锁针法LOCK STITCH倒针法BARTACK STITCH ,BACK STITCH三角针法HERRINGBONE STITCH杨树花针法FEATHER STITCH花针法ZIGZAG STITCH跳针法SKIPPING STITCH缝线迹PLAIN STITCH ,FLAT STITCH疏缝线迹BASTING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH绷缝线迹COVERING STITCH ,FLAT -LOCK STITCH绗缝线迹QUILTED STITCH嵌缝线迹CORD STITCH面缝线迹TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH暗缝线迹INVISIBLE STITCH ,BLIND STITCH缲缝线迹SLIP STITCH折缝线迹FELL STITCH倒缝线迹REVERSIBLE STITCH , BACKWARD STITCH包缝线迹OVERLOCK STITCH ,OVERCASTING STITCH ,OVEREDGE锁式线迹LOCK STITCH ,LOCKSTITCH链式线迹CHAIN STITCH联式线迹CHAINLOCK STITCH人字线迹HERRINGBONE STITCH羽状线迹FEATHER STITCH珠式线迹PEARL STITCHZ形线迹CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH角形线迹ANGLE STITCH弓形线迹ARCHED STITCH锯齿形状线迹PICOT STITCH ,ZIGZAG STITCH贝壳形状线迹SHELL STITCH网眼形状线迹BASKET STITCH蜂窝形状线迹HONEYCOMB STITCH直形线迹STRAIGHT STITCH双十字形状线迹DOUBLE STITCH交叉线迹，十字线迹CROSS STITCH圆形线迹ROUND STITCH廓形线迹OUTLINE STITCH曲折形线迹ZIGZAG SITITCH变形线迹CHANGE STITCH钩编线迹CROCHET STITCH织补线迹DARNING STITCH刺绣线迹EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH装饰线迹ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH花式线迹FANCY STITCH点划线迹DOT DASH STITCH对称线迹COUNTER STITCH比翼线迹FLY STITCH特殊线迹SPECIAL STITCH复合线迹COMBINATION STITCH, SPLIT STITCH复式线迹DOUBLE ACTION STITCH双针线迹TWICE STITCH双重线迹TWICE STITCH三重线迹TRIPLE STITCH缝式线迹SEAM STITCH加固线迹FASTENING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH打结线迹KNOTTING STITCH扎缚线迹PADDING STITCH袖褶线迹SHIRRING STITCH伸缩线迹STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH滚边线迹BINDING STITCH卷边线迹HEMMING STITCH暗卷缝线迹BLINDING HEMMING STITCH拼合线迹ABUTTING STITCH间断线迹BROKEN STITCH跳针线迹SKIPPING STITCH安全线迹SAFETY STITCH手针缝法缭针法SLIP STITCH拱针法PRICK STITCH明缲针法FELL STITCH暗缲针法BLING HEMMING STITCH环针法-CATCH STITCH叠针法FASTENING STITCH扎针法PAD STITCH扳针法DIAGONAL BASTING绗针法QUILTING STITCH锁针法LOCK STITCH倒针法BARTACK STITCH ,BACK STITCH三角针法HERRINGBONE STITCH杨树花针法FEATHER STITCH花针法ZIGZAG STITCH跳针法SKIPPING STITCH缝型，缝式SEAM TYPE ,SEAM PATTERN结构缝COMPOSITE SEAM普通缝NORMAL SEAM装饰缝ORNAMENTAL SEAM ,DECORATIVE SEAM连续缝CONTINUOUS SEAM间断缝BROKEN SEAM长缝LONG SEAM短缝SHORT SEAM内缝INSEAM外缝- OUTSEAM原缝THICK SEAM中缝CENTRE SEAM侧缝SIDE SEAM斜线缝BIAS SEAM缭缝SLANTING SEAM弧线缝CURVED SEAM转角缝CORNER SEAM平缝-FLAT SEAM平接缝SLAT FELL SEAM ,BUTTED SEA M搭接缝LAPPING SEAM双搭接缝DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM接合缝JOINING SEAM拼合缝ABUTTED SEAM双线缝TWIN SEAM镶色缝CONTRAST COLOR SEAM嵌花缝APPLIANCE SEAM 绷缝，覆盖缝FLAT LOCK SEAM ,COVERED SEAM来去缝FRENCH SEAM ,BAG SEAM莱克拉缝LYCRA SEAM伸缩缝STRETCH SEAM ,ELASTIC SEAM漏落缝SELF BOUND SEAM坐倒缝LAPPING SEAM开缝OPENING SEAM分缉缝-DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM压缉缝TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM坐缉缝TUCKED SEAM成形缝FINISHING SEAM ,FASHION SEAM明缝，面缝OUTSEAM ,TOPSTICH SEAM暗缝-BLIND SEAM ,INVISIBLE SEAM暗边缝HIND EDGE SEAM包缝OVERSEAM ,CLOSED SEAM ,OVEREDGE SEAM ,OVERCAST SEAM ,OVERLOCK SEAM明包缝FLAT FELL SEAM暗包缝WELT SEAM锁式线缝LOCKSTITCH SEAM连锁缝INTERLOCK SEAM链式线缝CHAINSTITCH SEAM环缝CATCH STITCH SEAM嵌缝CORDING SEAM绗缝QUILTING SEAM格子缝LATTICE SEAM交叉缝CROSS SEAM泡状缝BEADED SEAM,锯齿缝GERMAN SEAM ,ZIGZAG SEAM曲折缝ZIGZAG SEAM蝶形缝BUTTERFLY SEAM辫形缝PLAITED SEAM凸形缝RAISED SEAM带形缝STRAP SEAM悬缝HANGING SEAM保险缝FLAT FELL SEAM加固缝TACKING SEAM ,FASTENING SEAM终止缝FINAL SEAM领缝COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM肩缝SHOULDER SEAM背缝BACK SEAM背嵌缝CENTRE BACK SEAM袖下缝UNDERARM SEAM袖笼缝ARMHOLE SEAM门襟缝FRONT FLY SEAM ,PLACKET SEA M门襟止口缝FORNT EDGE SEAM摆缝SIDE SEAM衩缝VENT SEAM腰缝WAISTLINE SEAM腰带缝WAISTBAND SEAM裆缝CROTCH SEAM前裆缝FRONT RISE SEAM后裆缝BACK RISE SEAM ,SEAT SEAM下裆缝INSIDE SEAM ,INSEAM折叠缝FOLDING SEAM褶裥缝BUCKED SEAM ,PLKEAT SEAM对折缝FELLED SEAM卷边缝HEMMING SEAM贴边缝WELT SEAM滚边缝BOUND SEAM织补缝DARNING SEAM贴带缝TAPED SEAM