服装厂质量控制之铺料和裁剪程序

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CUTTING QUALITY SYSTEMDEFINITIONSMAJOR FAULT: Any fault that makes the made-up article B-Grade is considered a major fault. CUT FRAME: This is the maximum length between the outer diameters of the cutting rods that are placed on the clamps of the cutting table, it is also known as the lay length.  CUT SIZE: The size of the finished product inclusive of the stitching margins is known as the cut size. MARKING: Before cutting, lines are drawn on the fabric as per required cut size with chalk that serves as the guideline for the cutting personnel. LAY HEIGHT: It is the maximum allowed height of the spread. This height varies depending on the cutting behavior of the fabric. The allowable height varies between 2” to 7”.  QUALITY INSPECTION AREA: A separate area with D - 65 / TL - 84 light source and a rectangular table (9x 4) having textured gray color top and adequate height is available is known as the quality inspection area. L.C.R (LEFT CENTER RIGHT): It is the shade variation from sides to center and from side to side across the fabric width.  CUTTING QUALITY PROCEDURE: Cutting quality procedure is based at AQL 2.5.If any article is going to be cut for the first time then its stitching sample is made by the production supervisor and duly signed by the manager operations and quality control manager. For repeat order, an earlier sample may be used, but with fresh signature from the relevant signing authorities. With the help of the sample and the contract file, cutting supervisor makes the cutting program. This cutting program elaborates the fabric width, cut length and the number of pieces to be cut in various sizes, colors & designs. While spreading, the fabric must be checked for tagged faults. The Fabric Supplier does tagging where 100% fabric is inspected. Based on the nature of the fault, the cutting supervisor will decide to either remove the faulted fabric or leave as it is. As a rule, fabric with major faults is removed here, if it cannot be utilized in a smaller product. Decisions regarding cut frame, cut size, marking, lay height, pieces in the lay, etc. are made by the cutting supervisor. These are to be double-checked by the cutting QC inspector, according to the QC procedure and recorded on prescribed format. Textile Links and Controls cutting quality format. Every cut fabric spread must be checked according to AQL 2.5 at the cutting inspection table. The cutting quality inspector will draw a sample of seven pieces from the layer (up to max of 180 cutting spread), and take those pieces to his inspection area. He will check the pieces for size, fabric faults, Jagged cutting, straightness and shading faults according to the prescribed format. If the fabric / cutting quality does not qualify then cutting personnel will sort out the OK pieces & rectify the cutting faults. The cutting quality inspector will re-sample the OK lot and will record his findings in the cutting quality format.  As a matter of principle big size items are taken first, so that if there is any rejection in the big size, smaller products may be taken out from the rejected lot. TOOLS/EQUIPMENT OF CUTTING QUALITY INSPECTOR:The cutting quality inspector must have the following facilities / equipments in good working condition. 1. Inspection table with proper lights as mentioned above in the QUALITY INSPECTION AREA. 2. Measuring tape. 3. Stickers or masking tape to identify the faults.4. Stitched and signed sample for reference.5. Written cutting quality standards.6. Textile Links and Controls cutting quality form to record the data. ELIGIBILITY CRITERA FOR THE QUALITY INSPECTOR: 1. The person must be at least Graduate.2. He or she must have a minimum of two year experience in the textile industry.3. He or she must be well versed with the cutting quality systems. 4. He or she must be active and physically fit.5. He or she must not be colorblind.*End*
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