Fundam2a颜色理论1

单击此处编辑母版标题样式,单击此处编辑母版文本样式,第二级,第三级,第四级,第五级,*,08/17/101,1,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Quantifying,Colour,The that we can recognize are found at the following wavelength,我们用肉眼能够看到的颜色的色光在下列波长范围,Red,: between,630,and,700,nm,纳米,Orange,: between,590,and,630,nm,Green,: between,480,and,560,nm,Blue,: between,480,and,360,nm,UV,紫外光,X,raysX,射线,Microwaves,微波,400nm,700nm,Wavelength,波长,08/17/101,2,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visible Light and,Colour,可见光和颜色,Natural white daylight can be split into its component colours like rainbow,自然光是由彩虹一样五彩缤纷,的单色光组成的,violet,紫,indigo,靛兰,blue,蓝,green,绿,yellow,黄,orange,橙,red,红,08/17/101,3,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Object Interaction with white light,物体与光的相互作用,Diffuse reflection,漫反射,Specular reflection,镜面反射,Incident,入射光,Red Pigment,红色颜料,Incident,入射光,Diffuse reflection,漫反射,Specular reflection,镜面反射,Opaque object,不透明物体,Metallic Object,金属物体,Small flakes of aluminum or mica,铅或云母的小薄片,Visible Light and,Colour,可见光和颜色,08/17/101,28,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Colour,Three Basic Attributes,hue(,H,),色调（）,value(,V,) ,亮度（）,chroma,(,C,),纯度（）,08/17/101,43,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,Additive colour process,加法原理,Subtractive colour process,减法原理,08/17/101,27,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Colour Terminology,Human Colour Vision,The Trichromatic Theory,三元色原理,First stage in the human colour vision,是最基本的原理,Three primary colour stimuli,Red,Green,and,Blue,三个基本原色是：红，绿，兰,The Opponent Theory,互为余色原理,The second stage of the subsequent interpretation of these stimuli in the human colour vision,是阐述颜色的第二原理,3,psychological opponent pairs ie,white/black,red/green,yellow/blue,. There is no such colour as a reddish green,三个互为余色是：白与黑，红与绿，黄与兰,08/17/101,41,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,Additive Colour mixing,颜色的加法原理,Red, Blue and Green,红，兰，绿,Direct equal amounts of red green and blue light on to a white surface it remains white,相同数量的红，绿，兰色光相混合得到的是白光,The intensity of any of the three is varied the sensation of colour is produced. e.g. TV monitor,三种颜色的色光可拼混出多彩的颜色，彩色电视机就 是利用这一原理生产的,08/17/101,42,Fundamental,Colour,Technology,Subtractive colour mixing,减法原理,The sensation of colour in the case of dyed fabric in daylight is different from the case of TV monitor,布匹染整时，染料的拼色与彩色电视机的色光拼混是不同的,The dyes absorb some of the wavelengths of the incident white light. That is the light reflected back to the observer is no longer white, and the fabric is perceived as being coloured. This is the origin of the colour arises from subtractive process,自光（自然光）照射到织物上，经织物上的染料吸收去一定波长范围的色光，然后再反射到人的眼中，白光就变成了其他颜色，这就是减法原理的由来。,08/17/101,11,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Light Sources,颜色评定光源,Daylight,日光,Natural Daylight,自然光,cannot,be used a standard light source,不能做为标准光源,inconsistent in different atmospheric condition, at different time of the day and geographic location,因为不同的大气条件，一天当中的不同时段以及不同的地理位置，自然光都会有不同的变化,08/17/101,12,D65,Colour,temperature at 6500K, average North Sky Daylight,颜色的温度值为6500,K，,与通常的北光（房屋北面窗口所采的自然光）相近,Preferred source for colour evaluation as the close to equal energy distribution across the entire spectrum,颜色评定的首选光源应该是在全部的光谱中能量的分配均等,D65 Filtered Tungsten Halogen LampD65,卤化钨滤光灯,To reproduce and simulate daylight by filtering a continuous spectrum,是滤化一个连续光谱所得到的模仿自然光源,Most accurate reproduction of daylight in use,是使用中模仿自然光源最好的一个光源,08/17/101,13,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,D65 Fluorescent LampD65,荧光灯,Office daylight lamp,办公室灯源,Utilize only three phosphors,仅仅利用三种荧光物质,Spike and depression in the spectral power distribution, leading to enhance some colours, but gray out others,在光谱能量分配图中波形较窄且较低，因而导至使一些颜色变亮而使其它一些颜色变暗,D65 Artificial Daylight for colour matching purpose,做为颜色评定用的,D65,人造自然光源,Vervide BS950 Pt1 and Macbeth F20 T12/65,Utilize up to seven phosphors,利用了七种物质,Eliminates the colour exaggeration,清除了使颜色失真的因素,Recommend when customer without any specific requirement,当客人没有特别要求时，便可使用此种灯源,08/17/101,14,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Light Sources,D75,Colour temperature at 7500K, North Sky Daylight,颜色温度在7500,K，,北光,Horizon Daylight,地平线自然光源,Colour Temperature at 2300K,颜色温度在2300,K,Simulates in early morning sunrise or late afternoon sunset,与早晨太阳刚刚露出地平线以前或下午太阳落入地平线后的自然光相反,08/17/101,15,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Light Sources,Incandescent Illuminant A (INC A),自然灯,A,Colour Temperature at 2856K,颜色温度在2856,K,Simulate office and retail accent lighting,与办公室和零售商使用的引起人注意的警示灯相似,Enhance yellow, oranges and red, and suppress or gray out blues,能使黄色，桔红和红色变亮，使兰色变暗,Fluorescent Illuminants,荧光光源,D65,as mentioned,已提到的,D65,TL84,colour temperature at 4000K,颜色温度在4000,K,For point of sale lighting e.g. M&S, BHS,用于销售场所的照明如,M&S，BHS,08/17/101,16,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Light Sources,U30 (Ultralume 3000),colour temperature at 3000K,颜色温度在3000,K,UV,For checking any fluorescence brightening agent (FBA),用于检测具有荧光性物质的光源,Daylight + UV: Provides the exact mix of both visible and near UV energy needed to accurately simulate natural daylight,两种光的混合与自然光极其相近,Quantifying Light Sources,Standard Illuminants,标准光源,CIE Standard,lluminants,08/17/101,10,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Light Sources,颜色评定光源,What light source is your customer using?,首先要知道你的客人用的是什么样的光源,Ensure using same light sources to communicate colour and appearance with suppliers and customers,评定颜色各外观时，使用的光源一定要与供应商，客人保持一致,08/17/101,17,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Light Booth,灯箱,Macbeth SPII & III and Vervide Colour Light Booth,麦,克白,的,SPII,和,III,及沃维德灯箱,Neutral grey of medium lightness, low gloss background,体积中等精巧的，浅灰色的，底面稍暗,No other materials present in the viewing area,在灯箱中不能有其他东西存在,Keep away from ambient light such as room lights, window etc to avoid any light source contamination,避免灯箱以外的其他光源如室内灯及窗外的阳光影响灯箱内的光源,08/17/101,19,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour EvaluationLab-dip preparation,Minimum size 3”x2” each set, or based on buyer requirement,最小为,3”,x2”,每块或根据客人的要求,Represent the characteristics of the fabric such properties as sanding, brushing, washing and coating,表述织物的特性如砂洗，磨毛，水洗，涂层,Align samples in correct side and direction as request (i.e commercial face/back, warp/weft and pile up/down),按照小样正确方向（如正反面，经纬向，毛向）摆正,Use clear double-sided adhesive tape across the top back of the lab-dip instead of staples or glue,使用双面胶带粘贴样布的上方底面而不是用钉书钉或胶水,Keep clean of any lint or soil,避免任何污渍,20,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Guideline,All samples must be conditioned under the light in an air-conditioned room for at least 5mins before evaluation,在对色前必须使所有的样布在同一灯光和室内温度，空气条件下放置至少5分钟,Ensure the correct face side and directions (i.e.,commercial face/back,warp/weft,and,pile up/down,) to be examined,保证所核对的样布方向正确，正反面分清,Examine the samples for any colour variation and surface imperfection,检查样布的颜色变化和布面的差异,Place colour standard to the,right,side of the colour sample, no gap between them on a standard neutral gray background of light booth,标准办放在需核对样布的右边，平放在标准灯箱底面，标准办与样布之间不应存在缝隙,08/17/101,21,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Guideline,Standard,标准办,Colour to be evaluated,需作评定的颜色,5,Physical Standard Preparation,Select ONE standard for communication with dyeing mill, which represents the desired product colour,选择一个颜色,标准办给染厂,Ensure standards presented the same way (i.e.,face/back,warp/weft,and,pile up/down,) as buyer do (communicate and confirm with buyer) -,Directionality,必须保证标准,办各方面（如正反面，经纬方向，毛向）与客人确认的是一致的,。,Size,as big as possible,尽可能大一些,Use clear double-sided adhesive tape across the top back of the standard instead of staples or glue,贴标准办时要使用清洁的双面的胶带于标准办的顶部及反面粘合而不是使用钉书钉或胶水,08/17/101,6,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Physical Standard Preparation,Size,物理标准办准备大小,08/17/101,7,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Physical Standard Preparation,Size,08/17/101,8,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Physical Standard Preparation,Size,08/17/101,9,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Physical Standard Preparation,物理标准办准备,Store standards properly in a cool, dry, clean and dark place -,Storage,标准办的存放一定要在温度低，干燥，清洁，避光的地方,Prefer opaque standard ( No light can be seen through by folding or by fixed backing) -,Opacity,标准办一定是不透明的,08/17/101,22,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Guideline,标准,Colour sample swatch must be folded as many as possible, at least two or backed by another piece in very close colour such as another labdip submit,样布最好 多叠几层，至少两层或下面衬一块与样布颜色差异很小的布块,Same size of a colour standard and labdip can render a good colour judgement,标准办与小样的大小相同，能够有一个好的判断。,Viewing angle 45,o,(sample at the same distance from the observer as the observers eyes above the surface of the booth),视角为45度（样布与评定者的眼睛的直线与标准灯箱平面所成的角度）,08/17/101,23,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Guideline,0/45,viewing Geometry,观察角度,Light source,灯源,Observer,评定者,45,o,Surface,平面,08/17/101,24,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Guideline,Maintaining proper viewing geometry,保持合适的观察角度,Observer,观察者,a,90,o,Object,物体,a,08/17/101,18,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual Colour Evaluation,Observers,对评定人的要求,With at least normal colour discrimination skills as determined by the Farnsworth Munsell 100 Hue Test,至少要通过颜色辨别的一般训练,Should not wear bright/high chroma colour clothing,不能穿鲜艳或很深颜色的衣服,Should not wear tinted or colored glasses/contact lenses,不能戴变色或有色眼镜,08/17/101,25,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual,Colour,EvaluationGuideline,Evaluate colour under customer standard light source,评定颜色要在客人使用的灯源下进行,Allow a few moments for the eye to become adapted to the ambient illumination in the light box before viewing the colour difference swatches,在评定不同的样布颜色之前，要让眼睛对灯箱里的灯源有片刻的适应,Evaluation time per each colour as short as possible,评定每个颜色时，用时尽可能要短,If highly chromatic swatches have been viewed, then allow a few minutes for the eye to re-adapt to neutral before judging the next pair of colours,如果刚刚看过很浓色彩的颜色，要调节一下眼睛再看下一对颜色,08/17/101,26,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Visual colour Evaluation,Guideline,Turn off light box right after evaluation,评定后关掉灯源,#,Understand your buyer how to evaluate colours#,了解你的客人如何评定颜色,08/17/101,36,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Colour TerminologyC,olour Comments,Hue Terms,色调:,Redder,较红,Yellower,较黄,Greener,较绿,Bluer,较兰,(,No opponent hue term s together),里面的颜色都不是相互对立的,Lightness Terms,深浅:,Lighter,较浅,Darker,较深,Chroma Terms,纯度:,Brighter,较鲜艳,Duller,较灰暗,Modifiers Terms:,Slightly, Much,Too, Do not use %,修饰词稍稍多些太不用百分之多少,08/17/101,37,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Typical example:,评语举例,Under D65 (,Light Source,),在灯源下,1),Approved A,接受,2),Approved B but no more lighter,尚可但不要再浅,3),C: Slightly dark, should go slightly lighter,稍深一些，应稍浅一些,4),D: Slightly yellow, should go less yellow,稍黄一些，应减少一些黄,5),E: Too bright and blue, should go much dull, much yellower and redder,太鲜太兰，应暗一些，黄红一些,6),F: Too dark, slightly dull and too blue, should go much lighter, slightly brighter and much yellower,太深，稍旧一些，太兰，应浅一些，鲜一点，多加些黄,7),Off Shade: Rejected,不同色系范围：不接受,08/17/101,38,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Colour TerminologyC,olour Comments,Metamerism,同色异谱,Two coloured objects match in one light source, but differ markedly in colour when viewed in other light,两个在一个灯源下相似的颜色物体，在另一个灯源下却有很大的颜色差异,Customers have more than one standard light sources (Primary, Secondary or even more),客人都有一种以上的标准灯源（主灯，副灯，.）,Colour Constancy: Change of colour as the illuminant changes,颜色的稳定性：根据不同灯源的变化颜色的变异程度来,衡量。,08/17/101,39,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Colour TerminologyC,olour Comments,Special Comments:,特别注意,Reformulate the recipe to minimize metamerism,调整染料配方使同色异谱减小到最小程度,Typical example,评语举例,slightly red under D65 but too blue under INCA, reformulation of the recipe to minimize metamerism is required,在,D65,灯光下稍红光，但在,INCA,灯光下看却太兰，应该降低同色异谱（跳灯）,Metamerism,色变异,Metamerism,色变异,: a sample pair appears to match under one set of viewing conditions, but not under another.,Why?,同一个布为什么在一个光源下与标准办接近，在另外光源下都有很大的差异,Under D65,Under Illuminant A,Metamerism,Illuminant,Metamerism,跳灯,In,spectrophotometry,Metamerism,can be identified when the reflectance curves of two samples cross over one another three or more times,根据分光光度法理论，色变异是因为两块样布的反射曲线在三点或更多的点相互交叉,Wavelength nm,波长（毫微米）,Reflectance %,08/17/101,40,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Perceptibility and Acceptability Concept,可察觉和可接受的概念,Approve colour within an acceptable colour difference, but not a perceptible colour difference,较易看出差别的颜色是不能接受的,End use of colours to be matched,被对比的颜色的最终用途,Lot / Roll shadings,色系/匹差,Buyer standards,客人标准办,08/17/101,44,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,Dyestuffs and Pigments,染料与颜料,Dyestuffs - soluble in the application medium and have substantivity to fibres,染料具有溶解性，与纤维有亲合性,Pigments - insoluble in the application medium and no substantivity to fibre. Binder is required to bind this kind of colorant to fibre surface,颜料不具有溶解性，与纤维不具亲合性,08/17/101,45,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,Common Dye-class for Major Fibre Types,通常纤维所用染料,08/17/101,46,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,08/17/101,47,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,配色技术,Colourfastness,色牢度,All suppliers must mention with the submitted labdips if unable to meet customer customer colorfastness requirement,如果牢度不能达到客人的要求，在打小样时就要跟客人提出,08/17/101,48,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,Fundamental Colour Technology,Dark Brown -,yeingrecipe(e.g,),深棕 染料处方,08/17/101,49,BRT - Colour Evaluation Capability Skill Enhancement,